Venice: A Labyrinth for Romantics

Only a few cities in the world come close to matching the mystical beauty of Venice, Italy. It is an island where vehicles are prohibited on land, while boats traverse the crossword puzzle of murky green canals through the labyrinth of buildings. Buses are large boats.  Taxis are water taxis. Romantics may hire a gondola for a hand-pushed ride in those long and skinny Venetian boats, best for small parties.

 Above sea level, walking by foot is the only other choice. Here, no bicycles are found, no motorized scooters or tiny Smart cars are allowed.  Here, the island is a life away from the rest of the world.  A sort of paradise for romantics.  In the winter months, Venice is a cold and not so pleasant place.  Being located on the sea seems to chill even the warmest bones no matter how many layers of clothing. The benefit of going that time of year is the number of tourists drastically decrease.  Off season numbers are fantastic, including off season pricing for hotels and as airfare. 

 But in spring, autumn, and summer in particular, Venice may be crowded, but it has a magic to it.  The flowers are in full bloom delighting the nose and the eyes. The evening temperatures are comfortable, where nights show people wearing perfectly appropriate shorts, shirts or light dresses.  The charm of the city is discovered through evening strolls in the largest public square, Piazza di San Marco.  There, centuries ago, visitors arrived at their docks to a large palace, called the Doge Palace, and a beautiful basilica, the Basilica of San Marco.  Today, people stand in awe at the immaculately detailed and wonderfully preserved mosaic and sculpture-filled facades of the religious institution. Truly, it is a jewel not to be missed both at day time and night.

 In the very same piazza, at least one live band plays easy listening instrumental-only hits. One band prefers to showcase their accordionist. Another, more of a jazz ensemble, highlights their talent through the liquid yet playful clarinet. Every one of them has a pianist and drummer.  Behind the band is the entrance to the restaurant sponsoring the musical group.  In front of them are seventy tables for two, tempting passers-by to sit down and enjoy just a few more pieces over a refreshing Bellini  the peach and prosecco concoction originating from Venice. Falling in love with everything has never been so easy.

 At Carnevale, the annual festival right before Lent, people wear masks and have done so for hundreds of years. Because of this age-old tradition, they are sold, it seems, in every other store on the island.  From the bright and colorful to the blank, unpainted varieties, masks of every odd mold and design are uniquely Venetian.

 Murano is nearby Venice, an easy boat ride to an island of artisans.  Their handmade glass is unique and known worldwide, considered very good quality. Art-lovers are lucky.  They don’t have to go to Italy just to get the beautiful products.  They can find Murano glass nearly everywhere, as vendors understand the demand for hand-crafted excellence.

Beautiful glass, odd shaped masks, canals, labyrinths and charm. Venice is easily one of the cities that make Italy so great. Have you ever been there?  What did you like best about Venice?

How to Buy the Cheapest Train Tickets in Italy

We will just pretend that I never stopped posting for the two months.  Times get busy, other writing projects require more attention, 1000-page books turned American TV series (hint: the author is George R.R. Martin and I'm proud to be on the bandwagon) make the hours go by like it was seconds and minutes. And who knows, maybe a last minute trip to Venice made up the reasons why I've been away from the VASGO.

But when the national Italian train travel provider, called Trenitalia, offer one way tickets all over the country for as low as 9 euro per person, it's hard to back off.  Seriously, while drifting from item to item on the menu, I realize to myself, "Well, I could order this secondo piatto, the second plate in the multicourse Italian dinner usually consisting of a meat entree like Veal Scaloppine."

Or I could spend that amount to go up to Venice and see this:

Or Milan, Naples, Bologna, Florence, one of the Cinque Terre cities.

It's called Super Economy.  They are only available for purchase online.  And on Trenitalia's website, it's not the easiest to find.  But they are there, you just need to go looking.

First of all, you need to know what the cities are called in Italian, which by default means the name is different in its English form.

For example, if you travel to Rome, you likely want the largest hub station, called ROMA TERMINI.

Venice is tricky too.  If you want to arrive ON the island, you need the last Venice stop, called VENEZIA S. LUCIA. Any earlier, and you'll wonder why people are actually speaking Italian to you!  (The joke is that when you are in Venice, it seems everyone speaks English because it's so heavily toured.)

Really, knowing your precise train station takes just a bit of research on your end if you are unfamiliar with the station names in the Italian language.  I suggest google maps to help out in that case.  Some of my best travels through Belgium were easily navigated because of my prior research.

Next, choose a date, any date.

MOST IMPORTANT - click on the box that says "Find The Best Price", right under the date sections.

This will unveil the multitude of excellent prices, or the higher ones because you were too late on the days you chose.  That's right, you have competition, so get the good prices while you can. Typically, it starts at 9 euro per way for the best price, then 19, 29, 39 and so on.

With a little planning, you can save a lot of money during your tour of Italy.

The Woes of Public Transportation

Beware, my friends! Public transportation is not for the faint of heart.

Living in Italy without a car has changed me as a human being. For the last 7 months, I have relied on train, tram, bus, mini-bus, subway, escalator and elevator to get me where I need to go when my feet just can't cut it. The benefits are clear if you too enjoy the fruits of shared vehicles.

• You will likely get more exercise because you are walking to the stops.
• You will avoid (most times) sitting in traffic on major roads.
• You will have plenty of people watching opportunities.
• You will increase your level of inner patience. Waiting forces you to realize you are not in control anymore.
• You will help the environment by reducing the amount of emissions going into the atmosphere.

And there's plenty more "good" to be had. But where there's a protagonist, the antagonist must make his evil claims known!

The other day, I took the tram home. It was 10:30pm on a Tuesday night. The tram stops in front of me, the door opens and what do I see, none other than a large, leaf-patterned bag sitting in front of the entrance filled to the brim, its contents practically falling out.

This is odd, I think to myself. Bags are never placed right in front of the doorway. 


Now it's NOT uncommon to find bags full of trinkets, widgets and whammies on public transportation.  Plenty of people bring them on. But they always keep the bag right in front of them.  After all, it's likely to hold product they are trying to sell and there's about 1% chance they will let it out of their sight.

But this bag was a special bag. All alone, its green and blue leafy pattern stared me down when the doors opened. "Step over me," it greeted.

And so I did.

I stepped up the slide-out stairs of the tram, worked my way over the bag making sure to avoid any contact with it, looked right to find the only other inhabitant on the tram and found a seat in the second and last car of the tram. What a spectacle. There, the lady sat with her unkempt hair and several layers of dirty clothing. Why she left her bag in front of the door is beyond me. It was bad enough that she had a second bag lying in the center of the walking path. The tram door closed and off we went heading for our next surprised victim. Unluckily for me, she decided to light up a cigarette. This, by the way, is not allowed on public transportation. Luckily for me, most windows were still open. So it was a little cold, but at least I wasn't stuck in a hot box of cigarette smoke. I get enough second hand as is just by waiting for public transportation. But who was I to ask her to stop? Her mumbling to herself was part scary, part concerning. Then to add to it, her companion came out of hiding and started barking. At me. At the chairs. At the open windows.

Bark.

Bark.

Bark.

Excuse me, miss.  I'm pretty sure your dog is kindly requesting you to put out your cigarette since it's not allowed on the tram. Would you kindly oblige?

Bark.

Bark.

Bark.

Maybe I could revise what I'm wishing I could say. Excuse me, miss. Please put out your cigarette. And please put out your dog. They are both becoming rather annoying.

Bark.

Bark.

Bark.

The more stops we went to, the more people came on board.  And not a single person made a move to ask her to control her dog, or her smoke.

Nightmares like this happen from time to time in Rome.

• The train or tram stops for reasons unknown to you and won't move for 15 minutes. 
• You are trapped at the window seat next to the insanely smelly person, Italy's finest blend of musky body odor.
• Your late night mini-bus ride is shared with only one person who sits directly across from you. You swear you've witnessed 7 completely different personalities exhibited during the 15 minute ride. The demonic groans were the most alarming. The little girl laughter and dance movements were most pleasant.
• You get the bus driver who decides to reenact the cartoon Speed Racer. It doesn't go well on the bumpy cobblestone, for you, and the bus
• The drunk guy is on the same bus as you and he throws up on it.

Just be aware, things can go wrong.  But at least you are reducing the world's carbon footprint.

How to Get to Rome from Fiumicino Airport (FCO)

How to Get to Rome from Fiumicino Airport (FCO)

Getting to Rome can feel like the most complicated thing if you aren't a frequent world traveler. Signs are not well placed, directions don't seem to be translated well enough to make sense and every time you stop to ask for help, either you can't understand the person well enough, or they talk you into using a company because their friend owns it and will give you a great price.

Yeah right.

Number One: Know your end destination. 

Too often, the visitors coming to Rome who I know tell me Termini Station is near their hotel, or the hotel tells them that's where they have to get on the metro to get to the stop closest to their hotel. Termini is likely to be your destination (at least from the airport's point of view) if you are the average tourist without a contact out here.

Other people many times go to the other two choices: Trastevere Station or Ostiense Station.

Getting off at Trastevere Station is great for those whose final destination is in such neighborhoods as Monte Verde, Trastevere, Prati (the Vatican City area) and others on the west side of the Tiber River.

Getting off at the Ostiense Station crosses the Tiber and is great for those whose final destination is in such neighborhoods as Testaccio, Garbatella, the Aventine Hill, and honestly those who want to save euros on travel to get to the center of the city.

Number Two: Decide how much you want to spend against how fast you want to get into Rome.

• 4 Euro bus ride through a private company to Termini Station is the best I've seen (currently offered here), 1 Euro subway/tram/bus ticket to your next destination if applicable. I've seen many bus companies offering 6 Euro per way.
• Longest potential wait time before departure. Duration of travel dependent on traffic, around 55 minutes, could be more than an hour easily.
• 8 Euro for a train to Trastevere Station, 1 Euro tram/bus ticket to your next destination if applicable.  
• Duration: 26 minutes. Departs every 15 minutes typically.
• 8 Euro for the same train, just goes to the next stop, Ostiense Station, 1 Euro subway/bus ticket to your next destination if applicable.  
• Duration: 32 minutes. Departs every 15 minutes typically.
• 14 Euro for a train to Termini Station,  1 Euro subway/tram/bus ticket to your next destination if applicable. 
• Duration: 32 minutes. Departs every 30 minutes typically.
• 25-50 Euro for a Taxi. Shared taxi travel is cheaper, haggling is highly recommended for better prices. 
• Shortest potential wait time before departure.  Duration of travel dependent on traffic, could be 45 minutes to more than an hour easily.

Number Three: Find your departure location at the airport.

Finding a taxi is simple. Walk straight outside after you pick up your bags. It's hard to miss the longs queues for a taxi or the random taxi driver ready to haggle with you for a "good price". 

Talk with your bus trip provider to find out where they pick up from.  For example Terravision buses pick you up outside Terminal 3, bus parking number 3. Simple!

IMPORTANT NOTE #1: If you choose a taxi and attempt to haggle for it, make sure you have the address of your final destination in Italian. The last time I took a taxi, he didn't have GPS and so he traveled all over one particular nieghborhood trying to find the correct street. His street map just didn't get the job done.  Eventually, we made it there.  And yes, he expected a tip.

IMPORTANT NOTE #2: Taking the bus? Give a tip if you are feeling extra generous. It shouldn't be expected though.

The rest of the instructions apply to those traveling via train.



Number Four: Go to the Train area

1. Once you get your bags, exit the baggage area and go to the "customs" line.
1. Which is mostly nothing in Italy... look for a double doorway where there is usually no one there to check your bags. If there is, they certainly don't ask you questions.  In fact, it's almost guaranteed that you won't have your passport stamped.
2. Once through the doorway, walk into an open hall where people congregate to greet their arriving friends. 
3. Most cases I have found that you will turn right and head down the long hallway. 
4. Follow the signs for the train. In most cases, after a surprisingly long walk down the hall, you turn left to take an escalator down, continue straight, take escalators back up, and it forces you into a dead end where you take a right turn. 
5. Pass through the small corridor, please note the large format paper with train times/final destination cities in a glass panel located on the wall in that small corridor.  You may have to walk back over there to see when the next train time is.
6. You are now in the Train area.

Number Five: Buy your train ticket(s)

1. Walk across the train station hallway and then look for the windows down on the far right.  It should say TRENITALIA. 
2. Get in line for the windows that have the Trenitalia screens over them, not the tourist ticket places. 
3. Tell the ticket agent at the window "Un biglietto per Roma Ostiense (or Roma Trastevere, or Roma Termini)," One ticket for Rome Ostiense. They take credit cards, or you can pay in cash. 
1. SIDE NOTE: Using your credit card at the do-it-yourself ticket machines typically does not work.  U.S. credit cards do not have the same PIN technology that European credit cards have in them and therefore do not allow the transactions to occur.
4. The agent will hand you the ticket(s) you just bought.

Number Six: Validate your ticket(s) before going on the train and then find your train and get on board.

1. Every ticket you buy needs to be stamped at the yellow, box-like validating machines.
1. They are located on each side of each platform just before you get to the train itself.They are not huge and relatively easy to pass if you are not paying attention.
2. Look at the screen above each platform. Choose the train you board based on its destination.
1. If you need to exit the train at Trastevere or Ostiense, go on the train that says on its screen Ostiense ... or Orte ... or Fara Sabina. They all go through these two stations. 
1. This is a regional train with multiple stops from the airport.  It's wise to pay attention to the stops.
2. This is the one you get on if you bought that 8 Euro ticket!
2. If you need to exit the train at Termini, go on the train called the Leonardo Express.  The digital sign before the train will say TERMINI.  
1. This should be a direct, non-stop train from the airport to Termini Station.
2. This is the one you get on if you bought that 14 Euro ticket!
3. Board the correct train!
4. Check your watch from the time you leave. Once 25 mins pass, make sure to look at each station's name. 

VERY IMPORTANT NOTE ABOUT TRAIN TRAVEL IN ROME

Trenitalia does a sub-par job on telling you which station you are arriving at next. Sometimes their digital signs work, sometimes the audio messages work, but most times they don't!  So be ready to exit the train with a moment's notice.  Each station will be clearly labeled when you stop there so pay attention. The trains don't give you a lot of time to exit at the stations so make sure you are ready to exit when you the train comes to a halt.  Be at those doors ready to step off the train, not just out of your seat.

Heed these instructions. Here's what happens to you if you don't pay attention to what stop you get off at. 

You don't want to be waiting for that next train, bored like him, do you?

How To Use The Metro, Rome's Subway System

Before I moved to Rome, I always wondered if there were How-To documents out there so I could have SOME idea of what I was getting myself into.  It's easy to get lost if you come from place where you don't use public transportation.  So today, I thought I'd make all your lives a little bit easier if you are headed to the Eternal City.

How to Use the Metro,  Rome's Subway System:

It's quite simple, really.  Currently, there are two lines, the A line and the B line.  A third one, the C line is being built as I type this.  The city is diligently working on this additional line and it's said to be open sometime in 2013 though I won't be surprised if a delay occurs.  After all, they are digging through ancient grounds and if they come upon something truly special all processes are on hold until it can be excavated, preserved, etc.

First things first: buy your ticket! Un biglietto per favore. One ticket please. Pretty much every single subway station has an automated machine to purchase a ticket. If you are in town for longer than a day or two, you'll be better off going to a Tabacchi store (the store on every major street with a big T on it's sign outside) to buy weekly passes (16 Euro) or even a monthly pass (30 Euro).  If I recall, there's a 3 day pass for 11 Euro too.  All passes are good for Metro, bus, and even local train travel within the city limits of Rome.

NO, YOUR PASS IS NOT VALID FOR GETTING TO AND FROM THE AIRPORTS IN ROME. In the future, I will provide specific instructions on how to get to Rome from the airports.

Second, insert your pass into the scanner.  It's like a vending machine slot you put money bills into, except only public transportation passes fit into it.  Normal tickets from the automated machines as well as most passes bought from tabacchi stores work this way.

If you bought one of those all-encompassing tourist passes such as the ROMA PASS, you just swipe the card in front of the reader (above the scanner slot) until the light turns from red to green (usually it takes 3 to 5 swipes until it FINALLY recognizes that your pass is valid). Regardless of which pass you use, you'll know if it worked because the glass panels blocking your way will open allowing you to go through.

Third, choose your direction! Sometimes you have to choose your direction BEFORE you go through the entrance panels.  But most times, my experiences tell me you will perform this step next.  You choose your direction based on the last stop on the line.  The end points.  Not sure what your end point is?  There is always a map somewhere in the station for you to look at if you are desperate.

Metro A Line end points: Battistini (Left side) and Anagnina (Right side)

Source

Metro B Line end points: Laurentina (Left side) and Rebibbia (Right side)

Source

Termini Station is where the two lines intersect.  If you are ever in Termini trying to transfer from one line to the next, just follow the large signs with arrows that point down stairs or up stairs with the words LINEA A ---->, or LINEA B ----->.  Generally, a crowd of people are doing exactly what you are trying to do so stay alert and they might just be the guide you were hoping to follow.

Fourth, and once you've chosen which direction to go, you wait behind the yellow line on the platform.  A train arrives and you get on the train in that narrow window of time while the doors are open.  10 seconds total maybe? 15 seconds possibly?  The more people at the station, the longer the conductor will keep the doors open. It's not very much though so be quick! But don't forget to be courteous.  Let the people off the train first!  Too many tourists and locals forget this.

Fifth, know which stop exit the train.  Every car has a map of the A Line or B Line in it depending on which line you are on, which are usually located above the car doors.  Also, some of the transports used are newer than others meaning out of the car's speakers come first an Italian voice telling which stop is next and which side to exit, then in English.  But you don't always get a new car.  When you arrive at each stop, look through the windows and pay attention to the walls of the station so you have a clue which one you are at. There is always text letting you know which station is which.

APPLY THIS KNOWLEDGE: For example when I am at Termini Station and I want to go to the Piramide stop to get some great food in the Testaccio neighborhood, or to go home since that's where I live, I have to get on the Metro B line going in the direction of Laurentina.  Then I have to take it four stops (From Termini, it goes Cavour, Colosseo, Circo Massimo, and finally Piramide).

Don't forget to exit the vehicle and good luck!

Current hours for both the Metro A and B lines are as follows and of course, subject to change:
Sunday - Thursday: 05:30 - 23:30
Fridays and Saturdays: 05:30 - 01:30

Need more info?  I recommend this site.  http://www.atac.roma.it/index.asp?lingua=ENG

Almost to Rome

Buon giornio my friends!  Good day indeed.  Now that I've arrived in Rome, it's time you experienced what I have as well.  If there's anywhere that promotes the lifestyle of just VASGO, it's here in Rome.  So let's start from the beginning.

Now close your eyes, slow down your thoughts, breathe deeply and let your aura slip away from your body.  Step into my shoes.

You arrive at the airport after a two hour drive.  You stand in line for awhile to get your tickets.  You've just had TSA explain to you that this is the last time you will be able to touch or see your animals until you arrive at your destination.  Now this is not really a good thing to hear, especially if you are attached to your animals, but you grudgingly accept that you have no power over the situation and watch them take your loved pets away.  20 hours to go.  At least you're not stuck in a cage.  Then again, you realize your "cage" is just bigger.

Through security you go and after that comes an urgency to call as many people as you can to say goodbye since Sprint doesn't have cheap service in Italy.  Hold back as many emotions as possible, particularly those with your immediate family and finally it's time to board the plane.

Six or eight hours go by, snap a quick photo of the sunrise and you land.  Welcome to Copenhagen!

You are impressed with how many wind energy farms are visible from the airport, those giant pinwheels steadily rotating second after second.  On the way to your next gate, you are people watching while passing the cafes and notice two older gentlemen enjoying their light gold colored bubbly beverages and tell yourself- color is good, no haze, even from a distance you can see the carbonation, geography makes sense - must be a pilsner beer.  But you are no expert, so you withdraw and tell yourself - could be a lager too.

Then you look down and realize it's 7:30am Danish time.  A quick thought passes through your mind... well, when in Rome.  But this is Copenhagen.  It's not time for a beer.

Four hours go by and it's time to board the plane to Rome.  The pop tarts aren't sitting well in your stomach and you can barely keep your eyes open.  The second you sit in your seat, you pass out from travel exhaustion.  Two hours later, you wake up right before the plane lands.

Finally, the worst of the travel is over!  But it's not over 'til it's over, you remind yourself.  You mentally prepare for the customs troubles.  Bringing animals across the ocean must be a terrible pain.  Bringing 8 pieces of luggage on top of that must be even worse to bring through customs.  You envision being asked to step to the side so they can go through all your belongings, check the veterinary forms you had to send to the Department of State back home to verify with an official apostille that your cats are healthy and in good working order, no diseases, etc.  You can only imagine the questions you will be asked about your stay and why you are even trying to enter the country.

So you take a deep breath, wait for your luggage, get your cats, put all on a luggage trolley and make your way to the customs line.

It's short.  Too short.  You can choose which line to go through, items to declare or no items to declare.  We ask the guard if we have to declare our cats.  To my surprise, he says no and to continue right through.  That can't be right.  Continuing right through leads to the exit.  But after 20 hours, you aren't about to question anyone, so you just keep walking with your gear and kitties.  You sense a couple guards look at you as you reach the exit, but you refuse to make eye contact.  And then... it's all over.

Negotiate a price, take a taxi, benvenuti a Roma!  Welcome to Rome!

And of course, a little teaser to help you come back for more.  From the first day out in Rome... I promise you it tasted as good as it looks.