Hiking in Tivoli at the Villa Gregoriana

Adventure seekers need not worry about being too "bored" in Rome.  Sure, the city is famously known for its gargantuan supply of art museums and archaeological sites and yes, they are pretty darn interesting.  But keeping the kids entertained can be tough after several days in the same spot with material that looks the same.  Luckily Villa Gregoriana is nearby, located in Tivoli, Italy, and it's exactly what you need to change things up.

Tivoli is only about 45 minutes from Rome.  It's the perfect partial day train trip to get out of the hustle and bustle when things seem too chaotic.   The city itself is charming and contains superb views of the Lazio countryside. Three important villas are worth visiting if a full day trip is possible. Villa d'Este is relatively compact and has some of the most beautiful gardens you'll ever see. Down the hill and not as easy to get to, Villa Adriana will stun you with its man-made pond surrounded by ancient sculpture not to mention the size and grandeur of the ancient site. And then there is something completely different: Villa Gregoriana.

Unlike the other two, Villa Gregoriana does not focus its attraction on just the ancient home of a ruler. It is more of a series of hiking paths through forested lands sliced by waterfalls and their beautiful runoff.  

On the steep hillsides of Tivoli, travelers can find random caves, ancient sites of worship and perhaps inner peace.  The sounds of nature blend in to your experience and for a brief moment in time, you just might feel like you belong.

It's also a place worth exploring for able-bodied people.  The paths were not difficult, but they weren't flat either. It was a mild workout through nature that reminds people why they love Italy.

 For outstanding views, a pleasant hike though the woods and so much more, I recommend a trip to the Villa Gregoriana if you are near Rome.

So have you been here before?  If so, what was your favorite part?  If not, what's the best place you've ever been for a hike?  Share your experience with us!

Olive Season

November in Italy means olive season!  Those small green or black berries are just waiting to be picked, only a small percentage destined for the salty bath we all know as brine will make them wholly edible.  The rest will be thrown into the press.  Olive oil, here we come!

The single largest olive tree I have ever seen, simply MUST be hundreds and hundreds of years old, located at the ancient Villa Adriana (Hadrian's Villa) in Tivoli, Italy.

My latest article can be found here: http://www.made-in-italy.com/travel-to-italy/news/harvesting-olives-in-november

When Italy is in the Championship Soccer Match

The other day, Italy competed against Spain in the Euro Cup 2012 soccer tournament.  They made it all the way to the final championship match after fierce bracket-play and success in the quarter and semifinals.

Not having television here, I stayed at home enough times during these earlier games.  The evenings are beautiful in Rome and once the blazing sun gets out of the way, the 75 degree (F) weather makes for a perfect chance to sit on the patio and write an article or two. During the normal soccer season, AS Roma fans (or maybe Lazio fans - if they dared) were heard a few floors above from my apartment.  Whether the team scored or missed a goal, the cheers and jeers were noticed.  Even through a couple floors of concrete, a yell can be clearly identified.

But when the national Italian team games were played, the most fantastic aural spectacle occurred.  When Italy scored in the exciting Semifinal match against Germany, first I heard my neighbor above scream in excitement. But then my head twitched a millisecond later to my left.  Apparently the building next door had a few fans watching as well.  As we all know, sound is slower than light. Well just a tiny bit later, the surround sound eruption from the rest of Rome's watching community made its way to my patio where little old me sat taking in the VASGO-worthy ambiance of Italians and their love of calcio.

Hearing the repeated cheers throughout the game, first of all, really made me wish I had gone to a pub or had television at home since I always enjoy watching a good game.  But after finding out that Italy beat Germany 2-1, it meant there was a Championship game to be held a few nights later.  Sounds good, I thought to myself.  I should definitely go to a pub for the game.


And then I found out what happens when Italy is in the championship soccer match.

Everyone goes to the ancient arena.  The place where horses pulled chariots round and round, people piled in on the steep steps for a spectacle of their own.  Circus Maximus, Circo Massimo in Italian, was transformed into a multi-speaker, multi-big screen soccer watching festival. The site is honestly HUGE if you've never been to Rome to see it in person. And when there is not the hundred thousand people (reportedly) walking down the hillsides piling into the lower tiers to get a good look at one of the 4 or 5 screens, the vast and empty, ancient site inspires thoughts of the culture-shaping events that changed history here. 


But immersed with the people, blending with the masses helped me gain a deeper understanding, a truer historical perspective. Everyone walked by with a beverage in hand, usually a lager beer. Cameras flashed, people chanted. The entire mass stood to sing their national anthem, so different from what I'm used to.  The person behind couldn't hold a pitch for the life of him. Smells drifted through the air in invisible torrents, those of a unique mixture only a massive group could conjure and yet mask all at the same time. Sweat, musky body odor, burnt tobacco, sometimes cannabis. I couldn't help but wonder -  was this experience at Circus Maximus all that different from the chariot races of the ancient days?  

Without a doubt, even though Italy lost 4-0 against Spain, going to this match was a highlight I'm proud I attended.  To walk through Circo Massimo when it's empty is one thing.  To go when it's full is entirely another.  To feel truly Italian is being with the masses. Don't miss the opportunity if it's ever presented.

Italy's Free Museum Week

If I could rank the many Free Things To Do In Rome, this would likely be the #1 thing to do.

Each year, Italy's Ministry of Heritage and Cultural Activities works with nearly EVERY STATE-RUN MUSEUM in Italy to open its doors to the public and for one week, one wonderful, enlightening, inspiring, delightful treasure of a week, the entrance fees are complimentary.  That's a much lengthier synonym for one of my favorite smaller words, FREE.

It's official name: Settimana Della Cultura
Translation: Week of Culture
VASGO's Translation: Italy's Free Museum Week

Want to go to the Colosseum and see what the gladiators had to fight in?  Yep, that's free.

Want to go to the Roman Forum and see (just a few) pieces of column laying around? Yep, that's also free.

What about the Baths of Caracalla with their outstanding collection of mosaics from ancient times? Again, free.

What about the museum that perfectly combines industrial space with classic art, the Centrale Montemartini? I bet you that's free too!

In 2012, the Settimana Della Cultura starts Saturday, April 14 and ends Sunday, April 22.

This is the 14th year of the nine-day event created to promote and enhance Italian culture and heritage country-wide. It is said that not just museums are offering free admission. Villas, monuments, archaeological sites, archives and state libraries will also be welcoming visitors with open arms. Hugs, however, are said to be more expensive than usual.

Get it?  Open arms... hugs...

Awful.

The website for Italy's Ministry of Heritage and Cultural Activities even states that the experience will be even more special due to the many exhibitions, conferences, special openings, workshops, tours and concerts that will be available.

If you are going to spend your hard-earned money to come to Italy, you may as well save a buck or two on all the admission fees. Come during the Settimana Della Cultura.  Just be ready for the longer entrance queues!

For more information go to the ministry's website, available only in Italian, here: http://www.beniculturali.it
Specific information (again, only in Italian) about Rome's and its nearby cities in the Lazio state's offerings can be found here: At this .pdf

The Pilgrimage

Fearful of floating in nothingness for too long once you die? Anxious about your after-death sentence to heaven or hell? Do yourself and your loved ones a favor - reduce your time spent in Purgatory by going on a pilgrimage to the four Papal Basilicas all in one day like the people of old did (and possibly still do today).

That's how I would advertise pilgrimages if I worked for the Vatican. Luckily for them, I'm not in advertising.  However, I am into writing about fascinating things to do while in Rome, and this historical, religious journey was foreign to me until recently.

My Roman history expert shed light on the subject, about the many journeys from around the world to visit the four Papal Basilicas of Rome, which are:

• Saint Paul Outside the Walls (San Paolo Fuori le Mura)
• Saint Mary Major (Santa Maria Maggiore)
• Saint John Lateran (San Giovanni in Laterano) 
• Saint Peter's Basilica (San Pietro in Vaticano)  Easily the most popular one being in the Vatican City, so start or end your day there to avoid this long queue.

For those not participating in a pilgrimage for strictly religious reasons, I think it is worth attempting for a number of reasons.

1. The Basilicas are huge! We are talking awe-inspiring grandiose structures folks. You  somehow  feel ... different when you stand inside, looking up and around, taking it all in.
2. See what makes each one different! No Basilica is the same. Each has it's own unique flavor of design, both interior and exterior and are well worth viewing.
3. Compare their Papal Altars. In each one, a special altar resides for only the Pope to conduct his own Mass. 
4. Consider each location's relic. These ancient religious objects may be a part of the body of a saint or may have been an object that a saint touched or used at one point in history. Each Basilica's relic has it's own fascinating story.
5. The artwork and sculptures! There are some extremely popular items in the Basilicas you would not want to miss viewing in person. For example, Michelangelo's The Pieta sculpture is in St. Peter's. Simply amazing work.
6. It's one of the many Free Things To Do In Rome! Enough said.

I have taken many a photo of the insides of each Basilica and I almost posted them for you. But I abstain. This is something you should see without my influence.  It's sooooo much greater in person.

Here are the Basilicas and their closest metro stops for your convenience.

• Saint Paul Outside the Wall (San Paolo Fuori le Mura) - Metro B line, stop name: Basilica S. Paolo
• Saint Mary Major (Santa Maria Maggiore) - Metro A/B line, stop name: Termini
• Saint John Lateran (San Giovanni in Laterano)  - Metro A line, stop name: San Giovanni
• Saint Peter's Basilica (San Pietro in Vaticano) - Metro A line, stop name: Ottaviano - S. Pietro

Happy Pilgrimage, whatever the reason!

Snow + Rome

Recently it snowed here in Rome!  Why the exclamation point?  Because this is a Mediterranean climate.  Snow is rather uncommon here.

However, my native friends here explained to me that even though it snows once a year, if that, it never sticks to the ground... not like it did last weekend.

In fact, my friend Luca went on to comment that the last time he remembered it snowed this much was when he was 14 years old... in 1985!

I was told the average amount of snow collected was about 15cm, or 6 inches.  45 minutes outside of Rome, I have another set of friends who lost their power and water for 2 full days.  This was due to them receiving 60cm or 24 inches of snow!  These volumes just don't occur consistently thus making the cities ill-prepared.

Nor were the umbrella pine trees.  A walk around the neighborhood revealed an astounding amount of huge tree limbs on the ground.  Obviously, they are not used to wet, heavy snow.  In fact, my expert told me about an unlucky car located on a main street near us that still sits on the side, crushed by a giant, fallen limb.

The good news is that the snow made everything beautiful.  And I am thankful for a local friend who went out early the morning after it snowed so she could show the world its beauty.  I hope you enjoy it as much as I did.

The Roman Forum

This guy is dreaming if he thinks the buses are actually running.

So many people enjoying the snow while in front of St. Peter's Basilica at the Vatican City.

A couple of nuns in a snowball fight

Brings a whole new meaning to the term "Snow Angels"

All photos in this post are courtesy of Katie Wax.  Well done Katie!  You take outstanding photos!

Free Things To Do In Rome: Chiese

I have been a big proponent of Free Things To Do In Rome while living here and I can't believe this is the first time I am mentioning such an obvious thing.

Where can you find outstanding architecture?
Where can you find beautiful paintings?
Where can you find sculptures from some of history's most revered artists?
And all for free (usually)?

The answer is CHURCHES of course.  In italiano, chiese.  And they are ALL OVER ROME!

Seriously.  You could be in any random neighborhood with the purpose of trying a great gelateria you had heard about and stumble on a church during their open hours.  Why not go in?  It's free entertainment (usually) and here in Rome, you will be amazed at the grandeur of some of these establishments.  

Don't believe me?  Have a taste of this!

Santa Balbina

Santa Maria in Trastevere

Santa Maria Della Consolazione

St. Peter's Basilica

Santi Ambrogio e Carlo al Corso

San Giovanni in Laterano

Like I said, going into the churches allows you to see some wonderful art, even what some consider masterpieces.

The Ecstasy of St. Teresa by Gianlorenzo Bernini,  in Santa Maria della Vittoria.  Most just know the artist as Bernini.

.

The Madonna di Loreto by Michelangelo Merisi da Caravaggio, in Sant'Agostino.  Most just know the artist as Caravaggio.

The Pieta' by Michelangelo Buonarroti (THE Michelangelo in case you didn't know his full name), in St. Peter's Basilica.  My expert tells me this was Michelangelo's first major work of sculpture for a public place, and basically secured his getting the commission to create the David.  He was 24 years old when he completed this!

I still encourage all to visit the museums in the area which often charge admission, however, free art is the best art!

Free Things To Do In Rome: Ghost Garden

It's almost Halloween!!!  Perhaps a Halloween tale is in order to scare you silly?

Today, you get no such tale!  If you want to be scared, just read my horrific short story The Tale of the Purse Dog. Little pups all over the world tell that scary tale around the campfire, holding a flashlight up to their faces, many times, the light unknowingly blocked by their long, droopy ears.

Today, we talk about the Ghost Garden.

So what is this so called Ghost Garden?  It is actually a cemetery in Rome, which I also consider a garden.

I'd like to take a second to respect the dead and the living who object to my calling a cemetery a "ghost garden", in addition to those who feel betrayed that I sucked you in using my play on words as a masterful marketing ploy.

To the living:  I write this post in hopes that you can use the following information to have an even better time in Rome if you come out here.

To the dead:  I write this post in honor of your beautiful grounds to encourage others to visit you more often.

Now that absolutely everyone understands my motives, it's time to talk about The Protestant Cemetery.

When my expert told me she wanted to go there the other day, I didn't really know what to expect.  Living the life of a budget-minded professional blogger, my main thoughts were Will I be able to write about it? and How much will it cost?

It was definitely worth writing about.

The cost?  Trumpet fanfare please........Da dada dum dum da DUM!!!!!!

SUPER FREE!!!

The Protestant Cemetery is one of the many Free Things To Do In Rome and I highly recommend it.  Officially called the Cimitero acattolico (Non-Catholic Cemetery) but often referred to as the Cimitero degli inglesi (Englishman's Cemetery), this can be the final resting place for ANY type of non-catholic.  Many, both living and dead, will be pleased to find out there is not an exclusive membership for just protestants or Englishmen.

It's a relatively young cemetery considering Rome's age.  The oldest burial is from 1738.  Source  Other than being a free thing to do, there are three distinct things which I find VASGO-worthy and thus making it on my recommendation list.

1. There are very notable names of the deceased.

For example, you can see the grave of the poet Percy Bysshe Shelley.  Though I wasn't familiar with his work, I was familiar with his second wife's work, Mary Shelley, who wrote the popular horror novel, Frankenstein.  Additionally, you can also see the ever-popular poet, John Keats' grave.  Don't know who they are?  Click their names to gain a little knowledge!

2. The back drop of the cemetery is gorgeous.

Lines of Mediterranean Cypress trees, other flowers, plants, bushes and trees growing next to as well as ON graves give you the feeling the place is enchanted.  Single rays of sunlight do their best to make their way through tall and medium trees just to touch the ground below.  In the summer, you will cool off here with plenty of shade.  In the winter, you will warm up with plenty of sunny spots.

You feel like you have entered a different age when you walk right next to the Pyramid of Cestius.  Cestius' tomb was built around 30BC - 15BC!!!

Even cats tour the grounds.

3. So many elements are visually stunning and worth seeing in person. 

I've never seen a cemetery so diverse in sculpted graves, headstones, etc.  I am reminded slightly of the times I traveled near New Orleans, Louisiana, USA and saw some of the above-ground cemeteries which seem just as grand and beautiful.

Although these are just a few highlights of what I saw, I encourage all to see what I purposely left out.  There is MUCH more to be seen... HAPPY HALLOWEEN!!!

Villa Giulia

"Well hello Sherman!

Did you know Villa Giulia was built in the mid-1500s by Pope Julius III?  I was told that back then, lucky guests of the Pope or influential people of the time would first stop here on their journeys from the north because it was at the edge of the city limits.  Upon arrival, here's what they might have seen, less a few modern additions.

Pope Julius III clearly enjoyed the finer things in life and had the cash flow to satisfy his appetite.  Yes, the first site of the Villa is lovely and quite large.  However, I would never claim to say it was breathtaking... until you go straight through the front doors and walk straight out the back.  This is clearly where the money went.

Straight ahead is the three-level Nympheum, a grotto made to resemble ancient Greek water features, keeping much shade from the sun and was often used for outdoor dining in the heat of the summer.  Before we walk across the casino to get there, one glance to the right shows you this:

If you followed the matching covered pathway going to the left, it leads you to the garden.

Pretty Gardens.  Wish I had one of those in my back yard.  It would be such a lovely place to do my business.

Let's go take a look at the Nympheum.  We simply walk up a small set of stairs, go through a few columns and see this straight ahead.  Not bad, right?

Then look down!

So pretty.

Can you imagine eating lunch with views of the mosaic and statuary below?  Along, with the sound of water running under the plants which are so pleasing to the eyes, Villa Giulia is certainly just VASGO worthy.  And for an 8 Euro entrance fee which includes admission to the National Etruscan Museum, it is absolutely worth the money to visit this gem.

And since you still look like you have no idea what I'm talking about, I'd like to add that the Etruscans lived in areas north of Rome before Rome was even established.  Do you understand now?  We are talking VERY old stuff.  More specifically, the Etruscan civilization started sometime between 800 BC - 700 BC.

Now Sherman, don't stare so blankly at me.  Haven't you learned anything from me today?"

Source

"I think so, Mr. Peabody!  Thanks for the history lesson!"