Sunday, October 7, 2012

In Search of the Great (Roman) Pumpkin


To many Americans, October means Halloween.  To beerophiles, October means pumpkin  beer… the finest brews made with pumpkin, cinnamon and often dark brown sugar. 

This fine overcast Sunday in Rome, I decided to search for the Great Pumpkin in Rome.  I knew it wouldn’t be an easy task considering Italians don’t share the same squash-beer love ratios that Americans do. Nonetheless, I was ready for the challenge.

I decided to start with the place I figured would most likely have it… Open Baladin Roma.  I sat down at the bar immediately and looked over the multi-page menu.  If you are unfamiliar with my previous posts about this place: Open Baladin has about 46 varieties on tap. (See Best Places in Rome for Craft Beer and Autumn Beer Festival for more details.)  After flipping through the various categories, I finally found the object of desire.

Wait a minute… it’s from America?  Not what I was looking for guys.  I wanted Italy’s interpretation of the ultimate pumpkin beer.  I will have plenty of time in my future years to taste liquid pumpkin pie from the safety of my American home.  So I threw the menu on the bar top in a fit of anger.

The bartender looked at me, inquisitive at the least.

“Excuse me”, I asked in Italian, “but don’t you have artisanal beer made with pumpkin from Italy?”

The bartender turned around and searched through the mini-fridge behind him. Coming up empty-handed, he explained, yes, Baladin makes a pumpkin beer, aptly named Zucca, the word for squash in Italian, but they were out of stock. All I wanted was a taste of the good old days.  So I grumbled a few curses under my breath, fondly mixing the two languages I knew so anyone and everyone might know the pain I was then suffering, and I said, “I’ll take the Pumpking Ale from Southern Teir.
Pumpking Ale by Southern Tier at Open Baladin Roma
At that point, it didn’t matter what country made the beer.  I had pumpkin on the mind and it wouldn’t go away until I had my fix. So it arrived, a lovely light amber color with a fine cream head and I sniffed the pint to my heart’s content.  Aromas of pumpkin, cinnamon, dark brown sugar filled my nose making my mouth water instantly and a nostalgic feeling took over my mind. It’s like I’d just gone back to the U.S. to visit my family for Thanksgiving. More specifically, it was the moment I woke up in my old home, smelling of pumpkin pie at its last minutes of baking in the oven, ready to for dinner later that day. Buttery, sugary, spiced.

Then I took a sip.  At 8.5%, this beer packs a punch, but the brew master at Southern Tier has done an outstanding job of balancing the high alcohol to flavor ratio.  My beer-tasting palate is more advanced than some, and I could easily tell where that the alcohol was there, but it blended so perfectly with the rest of the overall taste, I knew this was a beer anyone would enjoy, especially beer-snobs.
The Translation: Pumpkin Ale - Now a typical American tradition, beer brewed with pumpkin and cinnamon.  PUMPKING ALE 8.6% - by Southern Tier - An amber beer that tastes of grain, somewhat sweet with notes of cinnamon.

The search still continues for Italian pumpkin beer.  Can Italy create a quality pumpkin brew in the likeness of U.S varieties? Will the love for this seasonal taste catch on internationally? Only more samples will tell.

7 comments:

Anonymous said...

How do you feel about sweet potato beer? Some local NC breweries make it - quite good!
Alexandra

Unknown said...

I've never been lucky enough to try sweet potato beer! Sounds interesting though. I will have to find it some day.

Tejaswi said...

Better than the Dogfish Head Punkin. Or any other spicy ale for that matter.

But - er - no mention of that Westy12?

-T

Unknown said...

The Westy12, my friend, deserves its own post... the story to be told soon. Wonderful visiting with you that special overcast Sunday!

Gillian Longworth McGuire said...

I had different (american) pumpkin beer recommended by Domus Birea last year. it was good, but the Zucca at Open is my favorite, now a tradition at our thanksgiving table.

Unknown said...

I still need to go back and try it... can't wait to sample the Zucca!

Tejaswi said...

Speaking of beers on overcast weekends. I came from Firenze to Termini on 13th at around 3pm (alone. Wife took the direct US flight out of Firenze), and had a flight out of Fiumicino at 9. Was that enough time for a sip of something special?

With a heavy backpack and a suitcase in tow, took bus 170 to Trastevere. Started a long trek to Brasserie 4:20. After seeing a ton of helmet and motoparts shops on the way, got a bit worried and called them - to find out in half-Italian and half-English that they open at 7. So, it was now between walking another 30 minutes to Ma che siete venuti a fa, or giving it up.

So, it was a Russian Imperial Stout from Belgian, a Tuscan IPA like hoppy ale, Evil Twin's super hoppy ale from Denmark, and a Belgian Tripel from some local Italian brewery. Bir and Fud next. Unknown hoppy ale (I was kind of drunk by then), and a piece of bread with olive oil (their kitchen was closed). Ran back to the bridge, waited for 20 minutes for the H bus. Came back to Termini at 6. Took a bus to Fiumicino and checked in to my flight at 7.

Great conversations with the owner of Ma che. He knew my favorite beers, and I got to try his.

Thanks for making my Roman beer experience wonderful.